Luang Prabang

LUANG PRABANG, the ancient capital of Luang Prabang Province in northern Laos, lies in a valley at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. Mountain ranges (in particular the Phou Thao and Phou Nang mountains) encircle the city in lush greenery. Inhabited for thousands of years, it was the royal capital of the country until 1975. It is known for its many Buddhist temples, including the gilded Wat Xieng Thong, dating to the 16th century, and Wat Mai, once the residence of the head of Laotian Buddhism. Every morning, hundreds of monks from the various monasteries walk through the streets collecting alms. One of the city's major landmarks is Mount Phou Si, a large steep hill which despite the constrained scale of the city, is 150 meters high; a steep staircase leads to Wat Chom Si shrine and an overlook of the city and the rivers. The city owes its present name to the Pha Bang, a revered Buddha image (now in the Royal Palace Museum) which was brought to the city by King Visoun during the golden age of Lane Xang in the early 1500s. This city is an outstanding example of the fusion of traditional architecture and Lao urban structures with those built by the European colonial authorities in the 19th and 20th centuries. Its unique, remarkably well-preserved townscape illustrates a key stage in the blending of these two distinct cultural traditions. The city was formerly the capital of a kingdom of the same name. It had also been known by the ancient name of Xieng Thong. It was the royal capital and seat of government of the Kingdom of Laos until the Pathet Lao takeover in 1975. The city is part of Luang Prabang District of Luang Prabang Province and is the capital and administrative center of the province. It is located approximately 300 km north of the capital Vientiane. Currently, the population of the city as a whole is roughly 65000 inhabitants. The reopening of Laos to tourism in 1989 resulted in a remarkable turnaround in the city's fortunes, as crumbling timber houses and colonial mansions were sensitively restored and transformed into immaculate guesthouses and boutique hotels. In 1995 the city was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

HISTORY. Many legends are associated with the creation of the city, including one that recounts that Buddha would have smiled when he rested there during his travels, prophesying that it would one day be the site of a rich and powerful city. Known as Muang Sua, then Xieng Thong, from the 14th to the 16th century the town became the capital of the powerful kingdom of Lane Xang (Kingdom of a Million Elephants), whose wealth and influence were related to its strategic location on the Silk Route. The city was also the center of Buddhism in the region. Luang Prabang takes its name from a statue of Buddha, the Prabang, offered by Cambodia. Xieng Dong Xieng Thong experienced a brief period of Khmer suzerainty under Jayavarman from 1185 to 1191. By 1180 the Sipsong Panna had regained their independence from the Khmers, however, and in 1238 an internal uprising in the Khmer outpost of Sukhothai expelled the Khmer overlords. Xieng Dong Xieng Thong in 1353 became the capital of the Lan Xang Kingdom. In 1359 the Khmer king from Angkor gave the Phra Bang to his son-in-law, the first Lang Xang monarchFa Ngum (1353-1373) to provide Buddhist legitimacy both to Fa Ngum's rule and by extension to the sovereignty of Laos and was used to spread Theravada Buddhism in the new kingdom. The capital name was changed to Luangphabang, where it was kept, named after the Buddha image. Luang Prabang was briefly occupied by the Vietnamese forces during 1478-1480. The capital was moved in 1560 by King Setthathirath to Vientiane, which remains the capital today. In 1707, Lan Xang fell apart because of a dynastic struggle and Luang Prabang became the capital of the independent Kingdom of Luang Prabang. When France annexed Laos, the French recognized Luang Prabang as the royal residence of Laos. Eventually, the ruler of Luang Prabang became synonymous with the figurehead of Laos. When Laos achieved independence, the king of Luang Prabang, Sisavang Vong, became the head of state of the Kingdom of Laos. Damage caused by a communist ground attack on Luang Prabang airfield in 1967. The town was the scene of many events during and in the aftermath of World War II and it was occupied by several foreign countries during the war France, Thailand, Japan and China. Initially the Vichy French controlled the city but lost it to Thai forces following the Franco-Thai War of 1940–1941. In 1945, a nationalist group declared Laos once more independent, with Luang Prabang as its capital but shortly later two battalions of Japanese troops occupied the city. The Japanese attempted to force Sisavang Vong (the King of Luang Phrabang) to declare Laotian independence but then instead simply declared an end to Laos' status as a French protectorate. Following Japan's surrender to the Allies, Free French forces were sent to reoccupy Laos and entered Luang Prabang, at which time the King assured the French that Laos remained a French colonial protectorate. In September 1945 the Chinese Nationalist forces arrived to receive the surrender of the remaining Japanese forces but also quickly set about buying up the Laotian opium crop. In April and May 1946, the French attempted to recapture Laos by using paratroops to retake Vientiane and Luang Prabang and drive Phetsarath and the Lao Issara ministers out of Laos into Thailand and Vietnam. During the First Indochina War the Viet Minh and Pathet Lao forces attempted to capture the city several times in 1953 and 1954, but were stopped before they could reach it by French forces. During the Laotian Civil War of the 1950s, 60s, and 70s, a secret American airbase was located at Luang Prabang and it was the scene of fighting. Luang Prabang remained the royal capital until 1975, when the Pathet Lao communist forces seized power with North Vietnamese support and dissolved the ancient monarchy.

GETTING THERE. The airport is located just 5 km north-east of the city and has a few scheduled domestic flights, but also some international ones from/to neighboring countries. The new airport opened in 2013 and a bit larger, clean and fairly quiet for an international airport. There are taxis and tuk-tuks offering their service for transfer to the hotels in the city. Highway 13 connects Luang Prabang with Vangvieng and the capital Vientiane. The road was upgraded in recent years and the trip by car all the way from Vientiane takes 5-6 hours, resp. 4-5 hours from Vangvieng. A regular public bus service is also available in both directions. Other destinations you can travel from/to Luang Prabang by bus on the southern route are Xayaburi and Phonsavan (Plain of Jars), resp. Nong Kiau, Oudomxai, Luang Namtha, Pongsali and Bokeo (Houay Xai) in the north. Boats ply the Mekong to and from Houay Xai at the Thai border (Chiang Khong), stopping in Pak Beng, where you can catch overland connections towards the northeast and the border with China. The trip takes 2 days (both days about 7-8 hours on the river) by slow boat. Instead by local slow boat you can book also a guided 2 days/1 night cruise package with a more comfortable boat incl. stops on route and overnight at a resort in Pak Beng. A very scenic trip on the Mekong and popular with many tourists.

ATTRACTIONS. Designated as the first UNESCO listed site in Laos, the city itself offers a treasure trove of discoveries. Simply meandering down the streets can be rewarding in itself. The peninsular section of the city is glutted with preserved temples. Luang Prabang has both natural and historical sites. Among the natural tourism sites are Kuang Si, a large multi-stage waterfall some 29 km south of the town (Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre and Kuang Si Butterfly Park are located here as well) or Tat Sae stepped waterfalls (just 6 km south of town) which are not as big as Kuang Si, but very picturesque (a 20-platform zip line is located here also). Both waterfalls do invite for a bath. Phou Si Hill in the center of the town has broad views of the town and river systems. It is a popular place to watch the sun setting over the Mekong River. At the end of the main street of Luang Prabang is the night market where stalls sell shirts, bracelets, and other souvenirs. The National Museum (it used to be the royal palace) and Wat Xieng Thong (the oldest monastery here) are among the best-known historical sites. Wat Haw Pha Bang, Wat May, Wat Sensoukharam are just 3 of many other beautiful historical temples of this former royal town. Every morning at sunrise monks do walk in a procession through the streets accessing alms offered by local residents. It is also a popular event for many tourists to witness. Mountain biking and cycling is quite common, with people often biking around the town or to the waterfalls for the day. Down the Mekong River, a 15-minute boat ride from the city center, Ban Chan (the pottery village) is an interesting place to visit as well. Pak Ou Caves are the famous "Buddha Caves" north of the city at the junction of the Ou River and the Mekong. It can be reached by road (it takes a bit less than one hour) or river boat (takes just a bit more than one hour). Those caves were used as a storage unit to keep the damaged Buddha statues (it is considered bad luck to throw them away, so they are often stored in caves). The scenic boat trip is maybe worth more the trip than the caves itself. Elephant Village Sanctuary & Resort and Nam Ou Elephant Farm are 2 other places of interest to mention here. In the late afternoon we recommend to go for a stroll along the Mekong in the town center, then sit and enjoy dinner at one of the many restaurants to watch the sun sink into the horizon. About festivals in Luang Prabang. Most popular are Boun Phi Mai Lao (Lao New Year) in April, Boun Bang Fai (Rocket Festival) in May and Souang Heua (Boat Racing Festival) in September.